Saihoji, also known as Kokedera or the “Moss Temple,” was established over 1,300 years ago, when Prince Shotoku’s villa was transformed into a Buddhist temple. Today, it is one of Kyoto’s most treasured gardens, known for its ethereal beauty and over 120 varieties of moss that carpet the landscape.
Visiting Saihoji has always been challenging. The temple has long limited the number of daily visitors and requires advance reservations. For years, bookings could only be made via return postcard, but now an online reservation system is also available.
I recently had the opportunity to visit for the first time, participating in their Nichi-nichi Sanpai, or “daily visitation program.” As part of the experience, guests are invited to quiet their minds through sutra copying and then reflect while walking through the garden. The goal is to rediscover oneself, return to one’s spiritual origins, and prepare for life’s next chapter.
To make a reservation, you must create an online account and select a date and time for up to two people. Full names and other personal details are required—part of the temple’s effort to prevent travel agencies and guides from monopolizing the limited spots.
This system has been in place since the late 1970s and serves as a thoughtful model for other sites in Kyoto facing the pressures of overtourism. It works seamlessly, and I was genuinely impressed by how well-organized everything was.
I traveled there by bicycle and was warmly greeted by men and women in Buddhist attire, who provided directions in both Japanese and English. Visitors are welcome wait under a tent across from the main gate until their assigned entry time. Once inside, the experience begins in the main hall, where each guest copies the Enmei Jukku Kannon Gyo—a short sutra that takes about 15 minutes to complete. Afterward, you are free to stroll through the garden at your own pace until closing time.
Thanks to the reservation process and emphasis on spiritual reflection, Saihoji naturally filters out disruptive tourists. The spacious grounds also help disperse visitors, allowing for a quiet, contemplative experience. The garden itself is breathtaking—immaculately maintained, with no plastic signage, unsightly clutter, or artificial barriers.
Because of its remote location, I wouldn’t recommend Saihoji to first-time visitors to Kyoto unless it’s a must-see on your list or you have several days in the city. It takes at least an hour to reach from central Kyoto. There are other temples and shrines nearby—though another, Suzumushidera, also require advance reservations. Alternatively, you could combine your visit with a trip to Arashiyama, which is only 15 minutes away by bus or train.
For repeat visitors or those seeking a deeper, more meditative Kyoto experience, Saihoji is an excellent choice. It offers not just a stunning garden, but a rare opportunity to engage with Buddhist practice in a meaningful way.
The temple also offers special programs for those who wish to delve deeper into its teachings. I haven’t written about its history as the official website is fully bilingual and provides comprehensive information. Click HERE to access that website.
If the weather is nice and you are fit (it is 8 kilometers from the city center), I highly recommend traveling there by bicycle as it is much easier to explore the area with one. The temple has no parking of its own, and paid lots nearby fill quickly, so travel by car is not recommended.