Deep in the mountains of Nara Prefecture, near its border with Mie, is Soni Kogen – a stunning grassland covered with susuki (Japanese pampas grass) – which was traditionally used to thatch homes.
The grass is set on fire every March. Soon after, from spring to summer, the highlands are covered in a fresh green carpet. When autumn rolls around, the susuki turns beautiful shades of silver and gold.
Easy to navigate walking trails criss-cross the plateau and surround a pond said to be the home of a mysterious swamp creature. More difficult hiking trails lead to the ridge line above the pond. All can be covered in 2-3 hours (for serious hikers, there are longer trails that lead in and out of the kogen).
Originally the grasslands were much larger, but, over time, most people in the region stopped using thatch for the roof of their homes. Cedar trees were planted over much of the land. Fortunately, residents convinced the government to preserve the susuki in a 40 hectare space.
At the entrance of Soni Highlands, just five minutes by car, is the Soni Highland Farm Garden. Stop here beforehand to pick up bread from their bakery (closed on Wednesdays) and to use their toilet. Stop again afterward to buy locally made food products and craft beer from their on-site brewery.
After your hike, consider a visit to the fantastic open-air hot spring public bath here. The water contains sodium bicarbonate which moisturizes your skin while you soak.
And, if you didn’t already eat a picnic lunch, there is a restaurant specializing in dishes made with locally grown vegetables. Across the street is also a simple udon noodle and teishoku shop, and a place that sells traditional Japanese sweets. Or, the onsen facility offers this lunch and bath combo for only 2,180 yen!
If you want to stay overnight, there is a small campground and some log cabins behind the onsen at Soni Highland Farm Garden. There are also a number of minshuku (small family-run inns) nearby.
It is rather challenging to reach by mass transportation (but not impossible). By car it takes an hour and 20 minutes from Nara Station, an hour and 45 minutes from Osaka, or 2 hours from Kyoto. Car parking beside the base of the grassland costs 800 yen.
Soni itself has been named one of ‘The Most Beautiful Villages in Japan’. Over half of the village is located on part of the Muroi volcanic mountain range and 150 million years of erosion has created today’s valleys and 1000 meter high cliffs.