Many of Japan’s best tourist destinations have been preserved due to their locations well off the beaten path. The town of Tsuwano sits in a valley in western Shimane Prefecture near the border with Yamaguchi Prefecture. It is known as the Little Kyoto of the San-in Region and is highly recommended for travelers willing to make a little extra effort. Once you’ve reached Tsuwano, almost every major attraction can be reached on foot from the train station. With excellent accommodation options, consider staying at least two nights!
Upon arrival, pick up an English map at the tourist information center and, if interested, rent a bicycle. Tsuwano’s ‘heart’ is a long main street lined with historic buildings. The area was originally merchant and samurai districts that supported Tsuwano Castle. As for the castle, only ruins remain, but they should be a stop on your itinerary.
30 minutes on foot, or a short bicycle/taxi ride, from Tsuwano Station is a chair lift that will take you most of the way up to the ruins. It is also possible to hike up – some locals walk up regularly for exercise!
Once you reach the top, it is a 15 minute walk from the chair lift to the heart of the castle ruins. At the summit, sit down and take in the amazing view. The townscape of Tsuwano is especially beautiful due to the red roof tiles made of local clay that cover traditional buildings below.
Just up the street from the bottom of the chairlift is one of Japan’s five most important Inari shrines, Taikodani Inari Jinja. The shrine was established in 1773 to protect the castle from harmful spirits. The shrine has a long tunnel of over 1000 torii gates, which are reminiscent of Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari Shrine. The tunnel is impressive and is usually void of any other tourists.
At the bottom of the torii gate tunnel is a lovely riverside walk and the far end of Tonomachi-dori, Tsuwano’s main street. It is lined with white mortar-walled storehouses, traditional samurai residences, and man-made canals filled with colorful carp. Spend time exploring and dine on some local specialties.
Along Tonomachi-dori, stop in for a look at the interior of the Tsuwano Catholic Church. This historic structure has Western stained glass windows and, instead of pews, a unique tatami mat floor. Also stop in the Hanko Yorokan, a folklore museum that was originally built in 1786 as an educational facility.
Five minutes on foot outside of the town center is Kakuouzan Yomeiji, the family temple of the Tsuwano Castle feudal lords. Dating back to 1420, it has a thatched roof and is especially beautiful in autumn. Visitors can wander the entire temple and should take some time to sit and enjoy its garden.
Up a narrow path, in a forest clearing nearby, sits the Otome Toge Chapel of Saint Maria. It was built in 1951 in memory of Christians who were tortured and died here in the late 19th century. Read THIS excellent article before visiting.
Back in the center of town, Tonomachi-dori becomes Honmachi-dori. This stone-paved section is lined with traditional buildings, some of which have been converted into art galleries, local craft shops, etc. A favorite is the souvenir shop, Ebiya, which has a wonderful selection of handmade items.
Shikinoka is a tool and seed shop that also sells handmade pottery made by the owner’s daughter (who also runs Shikinokasha – you can eat on her dishes there).
Visit the Tsuwano-cho Japan Heritage Center for a look at the Tsuwano Hyakkeizu, a collection of 100 pictures depicting Tsuwano sights and customs during the Edo Era.
As it is impossible to visit all of the sights listed above in a single day, an overnight stay (I recommend at least two), is highly recommended. One of the highlights of visiting Tsuwano are evening performances of Iwami Kagura. Kagura is a theatrical performance with traditional music that is dedicated to the Shinto deities of Japanese mythology. All the musicians and actors are locals, but their performances are amazing and watching them was one of the most enjoyable cultural experiences I’ve ever had in Japan. Aim to visit when a performance is scheduled or travel to the region on a tour with Heartland Japan – attending a Kagura performance is a central part of their itinerary.
For a small town, Tsuwano has some excellent accommodation options. My favorite is Shikinokasha, a beautifully renovated 200+ year old home run by a lovely artisan and her mother, a local shop owner. They hosts only one group per night (up to 5 adults – on two beds and three futon). Breakfast, made from vegetables and fruit from their own garden, is especially memorable!
The best ryokan-hotel is Yutorelo Tsuwano. There are seven room types to choose from and it is the only place in the town center with an onsen (and this fantastic outdoor bath). Their on-site restaurant serves creative kaiseki that combines reinvented traditional local dishes, teppanyaki, and tempura. There is free coffee/tea/snacks (and even alcohol at night) in the stylish lobby, and a special room for children (or those young at heart) who want to try their hand at some traditional Japanese games.
Looking for something more traditional? The owner of Meigetsu Ryokan is very welcoming and the inn can accommodate most special food requirements (with advanced notice). The meals, filled with local specialties, are amazing. A nice extra – female guests can opt to dress in yukata (casual kimono) and walk around town. The inn has 13 Japanese style rooms, all with toilets & some with baths. Note: five of them have an old-style floor toilet.
If you are a museum lover, for such a small town, Tsuwano has a wide variety to choose from. Three are dedicated to famous ex-residents: photographer, Shinsei Kuwabara; an illustrator of children’s books, Misumaso Anno; and novelist, Ogai Mori. Other museums cover Tsuwano history, folklore, washi paper, antique dolls, and more.
Visit Tsuwano on July 20th or 27th to observe the Sagi-mai, a special historic dance ritual and parade. The Washihara Hachimangu Grand Festival takes place on the second day Sunday of April. It features an impressive yabusame ritual (acrobatic horse riding). Click HERE for a list of yearly special events.
Getting there:
A special way to reach Tsuwano is by steam locomotive. On weekends from March to November, there is one round trip per day, from JR Shin-Yamaguchi Station. Advanced seat reservations are required.
Limited Express trains also travel between Tsuwano and Shin-Yamaguchi Stations (60 minutes), stopping at Yamaguchi Station along the way. Travel by shinkansen from Tokyo to Shin-Yamaguchi takes about 4 1/2 hours.
If you fly into Hagi-Iwami Airport, there is a private taxi service that will take you directly to Tsuwano for only 2000 yen (100 minutes). Or, take a bus to Masuda Station and an express train from there. The trip takes about 90 minutes total.
Tsuwano is also accessible by bus from a variety of places, including Hiroshima and Hagi.
For a tailor-made trip to the area, contact Heartland Japan.
What a lovely article covering Tsuwano’s greatness! I lived there for many years, and cannot recommend it enough.
I would add five absolutely must-see items: the perfectly preserved samurai mansion and gardens of Hori-Teien (which can be easily reached by bus from downtown), the Nagomi no Sato onsen (which have both public and private baths), the charming Kamiryo tea house and Inn (run by a local woman of ancient Tsuwano heritage and her French husband), and most of all, the twin Crown Jewels of Tsuwano, the Italian restaurants Pino Rosso and Artigiano. I know it seems counterintuitive that an ancient samurai mountain village should have good Italian food, but I tell you (as an Italian) they are maybe two of the top 5 Italian restaurants IN THE WORLD, hidden away in the hinterlands in Japan. They are shockingly, astoundingly good. Get the shrimp pasta with cream sauce, and thank me later.
Thank you, Robert! Love the recommendations. Hori-Teien and the onsen are on my list for next time. I mentioned my visit to Kamiryo and wanting to eat at both Italian restaurants in the following article (Wining & Dining in Tsuwano). Will definitely make it happen – and I’ll have the shrimp pasta!
I saw the follow-up article right after I commented, so it seems like you had the full Tsuwano experience. Just make sure you know the days Pino Rosso and Artigiano are closed (Thursday, and Monday, respectively) so you don’t go on the wrong day!
I go back to Tsuwano every year since I left, 20 years ago. It’s a magical place.
Oh, and to anyone thinking of staying, the Kamiryo tea house now also has a GORGEOUS room to rent, above the tea house proper. Incredibly spacious, with two full bedrooms and beds, plus large tatami mat room. Very reasonably priced (maybe 10,000 yen a night for a family of 4), and big enough for an army. I can’t recommend it enough, especially since its right in the heart of downtown.